Buchenwald Memorial Gedenkstätte Concentration Camp Konzentrationslager

Buchenwald Concentration Camp: Trapped With A View

When you approach the gatehouse of the concentration camp Buchenwald on a summer day and pretend to not know what’s behind, you would be easily able to imagine that this is the entrance of a vintage recreational park, romantically placed between the trees of the Ettersberg. But you know.

You are still on the other side of the gate. But the world changes behind the small iron door with its untypical modern and mirrored letters.

Those letters were made by Bauhaus student and Buchenwald inmate Franz Ehrlich (1907-1984), later architect of the famous Funkhaus Nalepastrasse in Berlin. He chose a typeface which was inspired by everything he learned from his teachers Herbert Bayer and Joost Schmidt. A modern design, which was condemned by the Nazis and called “entartet” (degenerated) on other occasions. But the the Nazi on watch wasn’t able to decode this revolutionary act of design. Shit happens, when you’re ignorant.

But the Nazis got their way with the content. “Jedem das Seine”. To each their own. Everyone gets what they deserve. Mounted on the inside of the gate, directed to the prisoners. Decades later, inmates still report the trauma they got from this perfidious message.

When you pass on the other side of the gate, everything changes. No possible imagination of a summer day at the lakes anymore. A cold wind blows around your neck and you look at a huge, empty, concreted space. Even the ears start to ring slightly from so much nothingness. As Buchenwald is placed on a mountain and all the trees have been cut down, you are able to look far into the vast landscape. You can see farmers working the ground, you see traffic on the streets and everyday life happening everywhere.

For every inmate freedom was visible at any time. But they were trapped here between humiliation, dust, typhoid fever, lice, hunger, fight, smoke and death.

Always good business: Making money with slavery

277.800 prisoners have been here, 56.000 people lost their life in the camp. I learned, that the Nazis killed two birds with one stone with the concentration camps. They followed their cruel ideology AND earned tons of money: Up to 2 Million Reichsmark a month. The monthly salary of a worker in 1939 was 167RM, a VW costed 950RM. Earning money with slavery was always good business.

Kids with weapons

During World War One a carreer in the military was mostly reserved for aristocrats. Whereas the Nazis recruited young impressionable men by the score. They felt honored to serve and to belong. Most of the SS officers in Buchenwald were not older than 18 years. Kids with weapons.

The double life of the Nazis

Topf&Söhne was once a normal industrial company with righteous engineers in Erfurt. But when Buchenwald camp asked them to build incinerators to burn dead people more efficiently, they did. Their engineers then have also been to Auschwitz to plan and to execute huge incineration plants. They have been the technicians of the Holocaust.

In a huge effort of research nobody found anything particularly evil on the characters of those people. Probably all of them went home in the evening, to kiss their children good night. There was even an openly Jewish accountant who’s relatives have been killed in concentration camps working there.

People abilities to compartmentalize are infinite.

The uptight research for a prove of the “Jewish race”

To fulfill their goals, the nazis desperately needed a prove of difference between the well promoted but totally invented “Jewish and Aryan race”. Research programs were installed to get there. In the following pictures you see a research done on the inmates of Buchenwald where every body part was measured, registered and compared. There was even an exposition on The physical and mental appearance of the Jews in Vienna in 1939.
Fake news become fake facts.

Buchenwald Memorial and todays politics

The former Head of the Buchenwald Foundation, Dr. Volkhard Knigge once said: Buchenwald is not a nostalgic institution. We heard, while being on the site, that the AfD (the right-wing extremist party in the German Bundestag) wants to transform Buchenwald from its actual status into something like a graveyard. People should come here and lay down flowers.

The AfD is widely known for a historical revisionism which just barely avoids to be holocaust denial. They want to stop the actual manner of examination and dealing with the holocaust and claim a u-turn in collective commemorative strategies (“erinnerungspolitische Wende um 180 Grad”). Their leader in Thuringia once called the Berlin Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe a “stigma in the center of our capital”.

Volkhard Knigge univited the representatives from AfD for a commemorative event because of conflicting goals:

  • The goal of the Buchenwald Foundation is to sharpen the eye towards the endangerment of democracy and to encourage people to actively stand up in case of this endangerment. The ideal society in the eyes of the AfD on the other hand neither pluralistic nor democratic but a society with ethnic homogeneity. A state build on this ideals will always have violent exclusion as a result.
  • Victims of the nazis invited to the event shouldn’t have to deal with denial or downplaying of their sufferings.

The AfD made 23% of votes in Thuringia.

How to deal with a memorial like Buchenwald today?

I wrote it already on my visit to Auschwitz: The only time in my life when I felt something like patriotism, was when I realized, that Germany was the only nation that dealt with guilt after a genocide. But I just read an article today that the supposed outcome I always imagined, is an illusion (German). Additionally, a 2020 survey in the US found out, that nearly two-thirds of US young adults are unaware of 6m Jews killed in the Holocaust.

How to deal with all of that? How to deal with a memorial in a political climate of hate and division? How to deal with a coming generation who won’t have the chance to listen to real victims or even perpetrators in their families? With people who lived through it? How to deal with other forms of communication and processing that are brought by up a younger generation in social media?

I hope we will find the right answers. If not, we will end up like the inmates of Buchenwald: Trapped, but with a view.

Good links:

How do young people deal with the holocaust? (Try not to judge to quickly)

Movie from the Allied Forces after the liberation of divers camps (trigger warning)

Auschwitz on a sunny day

How fake news lead to genocide: House of the Wannsee Conference in Berlin

The researcher of the story of Topf&Söhne (German)

Make your own Hippie Festival

So just for your inspiration: We did this first last year and this year, as everybody was stuck in the middle of covid19 measurements and did not see a lot of people, it was more important for everyone of us than ever. We called it the Body&Soul Festival. We have been nine people this year and everyone had to make a distribution for the three days together. Show the others something, invite them to create. We had yoga lessons, zen meditation, thai massage workshop, printing workshop, macramee workshop, salsa dancing class and, as always, the best food ever. I recommend doing this with your best friends at least once a year.


The Garden In August And A Lot Of Squirrels

What a lush summer. The garden was so happy and green in August. And when the hazelnuts were ripe, Wolfgang and his squirrel-colleagues went crazy. Who finds the woodpecker in the pictures?

A New Home For Refugees In 1947: The Eiermann Houses in Hettingen

Some years ago I visited an exhibition in the Bauhaus Archive in Berlin and only there I became aware that famous architect Egon Eiermann not only built part of a hotel in my hometown Buchen im Odenwald, but also several settlements for post-war refugees in 1947.
In 1946 Magnani, a priest from Hettingen, and Egon Eiermann made plans to build houses for the numerous refugees coming from the East to Baden. The settlers were strictly selected by ethical criteria (“no people caught with lies, theft or adultery”) – and had to build the houses mostly on their own.
Today it is possible to visit one of the simple houses which perfectly shows the different stadiums of occupancy – for example by not (always) recreating the original parts, but by leaving 40s, 60s and 80s taste of the residents shine through.

We’ve been lucky to have a guided tour by one of the former students of Eiermann. And I strongly recommend a visit for every friend of modern architecture.
Please look for opening hours and more history (German language) on the website.

Egon Eiermann HettingenDSC_8849Egon Eiermann HettingenEgon Eiermann HettingenDSC_8838DSC_8836DSC_8834DSC_8831DSC_8846Egon Eiermann HettingenEgon Eiermann HettingenDSC_8828DSC_8843Egon Eiermann HettingenDSC_8853Egon Eiermann HettingenEgon Eiermann HettingenDSC_8842Egon Eiermann HettingenEgon Eiermann HettingenEgon Eiermann HettingenEgon Eiermann HettingenEgon Eiermann Hettingen


Other Eiermann houses in Hettingen and Buchen today

Egon Eiermann HettingenDSC_8910Egon Eiermann HettingenDSC_8919Egon Eiermann HettingenEgon Eiermann HettingenEgon Eiermann HettingenDSC_8923Egon Eiermann Hettingen

The Garden in June

The japonese cedar is growing.

The owls are no babies anymore.


A tiny spider nest.


Burn the Virus

On a nice beginning of summer weekend, we met on the countryside to finally eradicate the corona virus from earth. Once and for all. At least in our dreams :-).

Everything started smoothly with a sunny walk through the fields.


But how to burn a virus? We first must have it. And as our intent was highly symbolic, we had to create symbols that could be burnt.


The evening came and our master of ceremonies came in form of ancient Indian wisdom to bring light to those dark times.


Our job is done. May the virus Rest In Peace.